Project Turbo Dax

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Nothing Is Impossible
Nhân viên
Turbo charging is a method of forcing more air into an engine. The turbo charger uses the exhaust gas to spin a turbine which in turn spins a compressor which is used to force air into the engine. You probably knew that though.
Turbo charging Monkey Bikes is not a new idea. It's been done several times in Japan and there are current projects in Germany, Belgium and Holland but to the best of my knowledge, not in The UK. For this reason I wanted to have a go at it myself. Supercharger (belt driven compressor) kits for Monkey Bikes are available off the shelf but that's no fun, I wanted to make my own turbocharged bike. I also wanted to finish it to a very high standard and try to keep untidy component fitment to a minimum
After some research and asking about on The UK Monkey Bike Forum a friendly American forum user pointed me in the direction of the world's smallest turbo charger the Mitsubishi TD-02. A few weeks later I had the tiny unit in my hand after buying it from Turbo Engineering Corp in America
You can clearly see to the left how small it is. I celebrated its smallness with a nice cold can of Scrumpy Jack!
The donor bike
Here then is the lucky bike. It's my 1974 Honda Dax. The engine is in my Mini Trail so what better bike for a major heart transplant?! I've had the bike for about 3 years now and resisted restoring it because it has a really nice patina!
I want to keep this bike very tidy in design. Some of the turbo bikes I've seen pictures of have been messy affairs which look rushed and without much thought for aesthetics.
The air filter normally sits where the turbo is pictured here. It seems the perfect spot to mount the turbo with the exception of possible heat problems. More of that shortly...
Looks wise though it's a great position!
Lack of fuel capacity The Honda Dax fuel tank holds a teeny weeny 2 ½ litres giving a standard 72cc bike a range of about 50 miles. Extra fuel would be needed for my gas-guzzling turbocharged bike! I didn't want to fit an auxiliary fuel tank as this only spoils the look of the Dax.
So where to store the extra fuel? How about making the whole frame the fuel tank? Would it be dangerous to use the entire frame as a fuel tank? I wasn't sure and no one could offer me a plausible answer. After all, the frame is much thicker than a regular motorbike fuel tank.
After many weeks of fabrication and welding I sealed the whole frame into a tank. The three pipes you can see in the bottom of the frame tank are fuel supply, reserve and return. The frame holds a whopping 9 litres of fuel which will increase the range significantly!

The Engine I felt I couldn't just turbocharge a 72cc engine. Imagine if bigger engined Monkey Bikes were faster! Turbocharged engines need a lower compression ratio to avoid detonation and lowering the compression ratio reduces power output. A low compression 72cc engine will be very slow until the turbo kicks in. I want to keep the bike mild mannered and useable in traffic so I needed a fairly big engine. Dragon Racing Parts were touting a 120cc Chinese engine as being very good with an excellent gearbox with nice gear change and ratios. So I bought one!
It's a four speed (one down, three up) secondary 4 plate clutch engine.
Here you can see how neatly the turbocharger sits in that section of the frame above the engine. Turbos give off a lot of heat so the turbo must have a decent air gap between it and the frame. A frame full of fuel.... A good heat shield will also have to be installed between the two. No worries though. Well, not many anyway :)
Turbo installation
At the start of 2005 I started fabricating the necessary pipework for the exhaust system to and from the turbo
This whole polished section has been made especially for the turbo as it didn't come with a manifold. It's made from a 12mm stainless steel plate plasma cut and linished into shape.
The 42mm section with the bend was obtained from a local exhaust fabrication specialist. I cut the bend which gave the necessary oval profile to cover the exhaust outlet and waste gate.
The waste gate is operated by the small lever you can see in the foreground on the turbo. A pneumatic actuator opens the wastegate to bypass the turbine and limit boost above a preset level.
With the exhaust outlet section made, the tail section will be fabricated once the bike is on its wheels and shock absorbers in place as the tail section will have to be fabricated around them.
Here's the primary section under construction. This section is made from 32mm OD stainless steel 90° bend sections available from Dragon Racing Parts. The flanges are made from 6mm stainless steel plate.
This really is a very enjoyable part of the build as it's so satisfying fabricating with lovely new stainless steel on the bench.
Here are some views of both pipes fitted and polished

Frame mods for wiring and heat
The Dax houses the wiring loom inside the frame. I'm filling it with fuel so the loom has to take another route. I'm routing it under the neck of the frame on the left hand side away from the heat of the turbo. I added these tabs which cable ties will go through to hold the loom against the frame.
Below: This must surely be a necessity. A heat shield to protect the paint and fuel-filled frame from the heat of the turbo. Seeing this will please many skeptics about my future without burn scars!
Intercooler design
These two pictures on the right show the beginnings of the intercooler mockup and design. The oil cooler will probably be mounted on the front of the forks for good air flow and so as not to disturb air to the intercooler
Just in front of the turbo you can see the dump valve suspended by masking tape roughly where it will be in the system. The intercooler inlet is over at an angle because the intercooler is 9" wide.

This second picture shows the intercooler outlet at even more of an angle. It's pointing towards the proposed downdraught carburettor. The carb is a Solex PICT 28mm from a 1200cc VW transporter. I'm going to have to build up weld around the inlet port and drill and tap some threads to hold the carb on as the spacing between the studs is different on the carb to the regular Honda inlet manifold. Again you can see in the top right of the picture the oil cooler in its proposed position.

Carburation I had been planning to use a VW Solex PICT 28mm (left) for the carb but was going to find it difficult because it's a bulky, ugly carb. A good chap at Southern Carburettors suggested a Weber 28 IMB from a Fiat 500 and another friend suggested I called Ricambio International in Banstead, Surrey. A quick trip there and I had bought the carb (right)
It's a really nice compact unit which amazingly bolts straight on!! Another bonus is the choke pictured below doesn't actually choke the carb, it adds fuel instead which may be handy for an on-boost mixture enrichening device...
Left and above: It's as simple as that! With a heat shield / insulator in place the carb bolts up really nicely leaving plenty of room above for the plenum I guess you'd call it. The air inlet fitting yet to be made....
In the picture to the left you can see the air filter supplied by PedShed with a 45° elbow fits really nicely
One throttle linkage. This is a simple bracket bridging a carb stud to a tappet cover screw. A 'P Clip' tightly grips the cable end. The modified cap head bolt takes the cable end and pivots in the carb throttle arm.
Cable movement is provided by a Daytona quick action throttle from Monkey Bike UK.
I need a vacuum takeoff to operate the dump valve. This needs to be in the inlet manifold..... but my bikes doesn't have an inlet manifold. I'm going to try to drill and tap the heat spacer to take a pipe fitting.
In the pic above you can see the bottom of the fuel tank. This is the view of the cavity between the top of the engine and underside of the tank. The swing arm sits between the circles top and bottom. The three fuel pipes are also visible, as is the surface rust developing by them! Bottom left of the pic is the new high pressure fuel pump mounted on the chain guard mounts. The pump is too big to fit in the cavity. I had hoped to fit it, the fuel pressure regulator and fuel tap in here but the pump's too big so it's living outside on polished stainless steel brackets. Centre is the fuel tap and top is the regulator placed in situ. The rest of the cavity will house wiring, coil, regulator and CDI. Oh, and some heat shielding to protect them from the fireball!
Above you can see the cavity between the fuel tank and top of the crankcase allows for some parts to be concealed here. I don't want everything on show so I'm cramming as much as possible in here. On the left is the fuel tap which protrudes through the left hand side of the frame and will also go through the chain guard. On the right is the fuel pressure regulator. This is needed to reduce the fuel pressure down from 70psi to just a few pounds above boost pressure. The regulator receives boost pressure and increases fuel pressure as boost increases. If boost pressure were to go higher than fuel pressure the fuel would fail to be delivered and the mixture would go lean and risk holeing the piston.
The adjustment screw for the regulator protrudes through the right hand side of the frame which will be needed for setting up.
In this picture you can see the coil, ignition unit (CDI) and voltage regulator can be squeezed in here too, with a little modification
Wanting to hide as much of the gubbins away from view I hid the fuel tap inside the frame. The control for it pokes through the chain guard and sits below the fuel pump. Pictured above is the view from below the chain guard. The original tap handle was cut off. An 8mm bar was notched and slotted over the tap stub. This was drilled and pinned in place. First Build It's time to start thinking about the first build of the bike as a whole. I build my bikes up rough and ride them for a few hundred miles for a shakedown so changes can still be made without having to rechrome or repaint things.

I had a can of aerosol paint in the cupboard I used for another project. It turned out to be orange! To the right you can see the threaded bosses welded on to accept the intercooler mounting
Time to chuck the bike together roughly to get a feel for how it's going to look. Everything's finger tight at the moment. The hubs are not properly fitted. They both need modifying for brakes and to fit the rims The rear suspension is too high. I don't like this look but those rear shockers are just cheapies. The seat should be level and the frame go uphill. I still don't have the air intake for the top of the carb or the oil cooler or intercooler....
< Left - View from the seat
Upfront is a fat 120mm tyre on the 3.5" wide 10" rim. It's rather rude and only just fits between the upside down fork legs
Lots more going on here than normal. On the left is the air filter and the gold unit is the turbo's wastegate actuator. On the right is the turbo exhaust.
Next job is getting the front caliper to clear the wheel and mount the disc to the hub.

Some more pics of the intercooler and oil cooler in cardboard I've got a Takegawa headlamp but it's a bit high at the moment
The front end
Now on to the front end. I'm using a Honda Nice disc and caliper with the original Dax hub and 3.5" wide G-Craft wheel. This is no simple bolt-together job. I decided to press ahead using the wider rim because it's difficult! There's no major gain using such a wide rim and in fact some people say it might actually effect handling adversely. We'll see. I just wanted the challenge. The problem is caliper clearance to the wheel. Offering it up it's clear the caliper will have to be ground. This weakens the caliper so replacement material will have to be welded in.
First off the hub was modified and a boss to take the disc was machined - see right
The boss has a lip to locate the disc (above) and is drilled and tapped to bolt the disc to it.
The boss is bolted to the hub from the inside where the drum brake used to be (right)
Here's the disc in place (below right)
The 120mm tyre just fits between the fork legs. There's a tiny gap but a gap's a gap as they say! (below)
Above shows the small clearance gap between the disc and right hand fork leg. This small gap allows as big a gap as possible for the caliper to use. Here's the finished Dax drum plate with the location lugs, brake pivot hole and cable bracket removed and blended away leaving only the speedo drive in place.
These three pictures show the caliper having been modified. I ground away whatever was required to clear the rim replacing any unnecessary grindage with weld. Any extra areas which could be strengthened with more material were welded too giving the large flat area bottom left.
Having removed so much material, strength is always going to come into question. I have significantly beefed up the fingers and their construction to the main body of the caliper.
Fear not for my life, this is plenty strong enough!
To the right is the caliper in place. It's got about 2mm clearance from the rim now. In the picture it has no pistons fitted and the rubber mounts are finished so it is actually resting slightly on the rim but once rebuilt it will clear the rim satisfactorily
A gap's a gap after all!
Frame finishing The final jobs to get the frame finished include fitting of the steering lock. The original early Dax steering lock is incompatible with the new forks. I decided to fit a Jincheng M50 steering lock, mounted to the frame and locking the lower yoke. I made up a bracket from 6mm steel and welded it to the frame then drilled through this into the yoke so the lock could do its thing. See right.
I gave the frame a coat of metallic blue, the shade I'll have the bike painted professionally finished in. I followed this with a couple of coats of lacquer. Halfords aerosol paints go on really nicely. They recommend leaving the lacquer two weeks before flatting and polishing
The last job before the road build will be to slosh seal the frame to make it completely fuel tight. The inside has been prepared with shot blasting and will use top specification sealer.
The Start of the Build And we're off... It's April 2005 and I'm 8 months into the project and only now am I starting the build! I never said it would be quick and I don't get to work on it for long periods (lunchtimes and weekends) but I have started the first road-going build now

Below: Shortly after this picture was taken I realised I'd forgotten to put the coil in there. After some jiggery-pokery I managed to fit it in too (after I introduced it to Mr Hacksaw....) A layer of heat proof lining was laid in here and the engine fitted with everything upturned which helped prevent the coil, CDI and regulator move.
Above and above right: Initial engine fitment. Below: Beginning the fuel tap and fuel pressure regulator plumbing.

The coolers arrive!

Above and below, intercooler and oil cooler fitted with the engine in a running state
Above is the intercooler as it arrived. Below is the oil cooler as fitted to the bike. It's not up to the standard of the intercooler so it's being remade. When I'm happy with the quality I'll remove this picture, take a new one and tell you who made them!

Getting it on the road If I was to do some proper setting up and running in it would have to be on the road. These pictures show the bike pretty much together and having passed its MOT test. The tune is still very rough. Miles off in fact. It runs and is just about rideable but at the moment I haven't got the carburation close enough for the engine to rev out nicely and generate any noticable boost.

.... and that's as far as the project is as of 17th May 2008. Stay tuned for more updates! - Ferg
This project is on the back-burner at the moment due to the turbo having sprung an oil leak and needing returned to America for rebuild. Oh and it didn't really work anyway!


Tài xế O-H
bài này em ngậm gần cả tuần nghiền ngẩm nhiều lắm rồi, hôm nào lĩnh luơng là mua hàng liều :D ko biết đủ không hichic....


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Thank so much ! thank for post very good


Học việc
Cho phép em tập dịch tài liệu chút nha!!!
Tuabin tăng áp là một phương pháp tăng áp suất không khí nạp vào động cơ. Bộ tuabin tăng áp sử dụng dòng khí thải để quay tuabin qua đó quay một máy nén được sử dụng để tăng áp suất không khí nạp vào động cơ. Các bạn hầu như đã biết qua.
Tuabin tăng áp cho Monkey Bikes (Xe khỉ!!!) không phải là một ý tưởng mới. Nó được thực hiện nhiều lần tại Nhật Bản và có những dự án hiện tại ở Đức, Bỉ và Hà Lan nhưng theo sự hiểu biết của tôi, Vương quốc Anh thì chưa. Vì lý do này tôi muốn có một sự đột phá. Bộ siêu tăng áp (máy nén dẫn động đai) dành cho Monkey Bikes cũng đã có sẵn có thể dùng nhưng như thế không thú vị chút nào, tôi muốn tạo ra một chiếc của riêng mình. Tôi cũng muốn đạt đến một tiêu chuẩn thật cao và cố gắng cho sự xáo trộn ở mức thấp nhất.

Sau khi có một số nghiên cứu và hỏi một số người bạn trên diễn đàn The UK Monkey Bike diễn đàn của một người gốc Mỹ họ đã giới thiệu cho tôi bộ tuabin tăng áp nhỏ nhất thế giới của Mitsubishi TD-02. Một vài tuần sau đó tôi đã có được thứ nhỏ bé đó trong tay sau khi mua nó từ trang của Mỹ.
Bạn có thể thấy rõ ở bên trái nó nhỏ đến thế nào. Tôi thích sự nhỏ bé của nó với một vẻ đẹp lạnh lùng của lon Scrumpy Jack!
Lời của chủ nhân chiếc xe

Ở tại đây lúc bấy giờ nó là chiếc xe may mắn. Nó là chiếc 1974 Honda Dax của tôi. Động cơ bên trong là Mini Trail công việc này làm cho nó mạnh mẽ hơn hệt như một trái tim được cấy ghép thêm?! Tôi đã có nó trong khoảng 3 năm nay và không khôi phục lại nó bởi vì nó có một lớp sơn thật đẹp!

Tôi muốn giữ chiếc xe này thật chuẩn như thiết kế. Trên một số xe có tăng áp. Tôi nhìn thấy một hình ảnh thật hỗn độn của công việc "chế độ" trông có vẻ vội vã và không quan tâm nhiều đến yếu tố thẩm mỹ.
Các bộ lọc không khí thông thường đặt nơi tuabin như hình ở đây. Đó dường như là chỗ lý tưởng để lắp tuabin đồng thời loại trừ được các vấn đề về nhiệt. Hơn cả sự ngắn gọn…
Trông có vẻ khôn ngoan dường như đó là một vị trí tuyệt vời!
Dung tích bình nhiên liệu qua khiêm tốn
Thùng nhiên liệu Honda Dax chứa được một lượng khiêm tốn 2 ½ lít theo tiêu chuẩn đủ cho chiếc xe 72cc đi khoảng 50 dặm. Nhiên liệu bổ sung sẽ là điều cần thiết cho chiếc xe máy tuabin tăng áp ‘háu’ xăng của tôi ! Tôi không muốn để thùng nhiên liệu phụ như trông chỉ như một chiến lợi phẩm của Dax.
Vì vậy, nơi để chứa nhiên liệu phụ? Làm thế nào để chế toàn bộ khung cho thùng nhiên liệu? Có gì nguy hiểm khi sử dụng toàn bộ khung như là một thùng nhiên liệu? Tôi đã không dám chắc và không ai có thể cho tôi một câu trả lời chính đáng. Hơn nữa, cái khung dày hơn vỏ thùng nhiên liệu xe máy thông thường.

Sau nhiều tuần chế độ và hàn tôi làm kín toàn bộ khung thành một cái thùng. Ba cái ống bạn có thể thấy ở dưới cùng của thùng là: cung cấp nhiên liệu, dự trữ và hồi. Khung chứa một lượng lớn: 9 lít nhiên liệu sẽ tăng đáng kể dung lượng!

Động cơ
Tôi cảm thấy không thể chỉ dùng tuabin tăng áp cho một động cơ 72cc. Hãy tưởng tượng nếu động cơ lớn hơn Monkey Bikes sẽ nhanh hơn! Động cơ tăng áp cần một tỉ số nén thấp hơn để tránh kích nổ và giảm tỉ số nén làm giảm công suất phát ra. Một động cơ 72cc nén thấp sẽ rất chậm cho đến khi tuabin hoạt động. Tôi muốn giữ cho chiếc xe kiểu cách nhẹ nhàng và sử dụng được trong giao thông vì vậy tôi cần một động cơ khá lớn. Website đã chào hàng một động cơ 120cc của Trung Quốc có vẻ rất tốt với một hộp số tuyệt vời với bộ càng số bắt mắt. Vì vậy, tôi mua một bộ!
Đó là loại bốn tốc độ (xuống 1, lên 3) động cơ thứ cấp ly hợp 4 đĩa.

Ở đây bạn có thể thấy bộ tăng áp lắp đặt ngay ngắn trong phần khung phía trên động cơ. Tuabin tỏa ra rất nhiều nhiệt do đó nó phải có một khoảng hở kha khá giữa nó và khung. Một bộ khung chứa đầy nhiên liệu .... Một lá chắn nhiệt tốt cũng sẽ phải được đặt giữa 2 bộ phận đó. Không có gì phải lo lắng mặc dù. Vâng, dù sao cũng không nhiều.

Lắp đặt Tuabin
Vào đầu năm 2005 tôi bắt đầu chế các đường ống cần thiết cho hệ thống xả đến và đi từ turbo

Việc đánh bóng toàn bộ phần này đã được thực hiện xong nhất là đối với các tuabin hệt như nó không phải là đồ chế độ. Nó được làm từ một tấm thép không gỉ 12mm cắt bằng Plasma và được tạo hình.
Đoạn 42mm uốn cong nhận được từ một thợ cơ khí chế tạo địa phương. Tôi cắt đoạn cong đã được tạo độ oval cần thiết để bọc bên ngoài ống xả và cửa xả.

Cửa xả được vận hành bởi các đòn bẩy nhỏ bạn có thể thấy ở mặt trước và trên tuabin. Một thiết bị truyền động khí nén mở cửa xả để giải phóng cho tuabin và giới hạn sự tăng cao quá mức độ định trước.
Em xin dừng ngang đây thôi. Mệt rồi!!!:37:
Ngủ tối xem C1:b


Nothing Is Impossible
Nhân viên
Trình độ tiếng anh quá tốt :)) không cần học ô tô nữa bác ạ chuyển qua làm phóng viên cho tạp chí otohui :w:w:w:w

Bạn hãy đăng nhập hoặc đăng ký để phản hồi tại đây nhé.

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